Urbanism: how do you (re)build a Palestinian state?


Decades of sporadic violence in Gaza have inevitably left their mark on the urban landscape. Today, entire neighbourhoods stand in ruins, with some 18,000 homes destroyed or severely damaged and 100,000 Gazans left homeless.

“In the last decade, Gaza witnessed repeated catastrophes,” the Palestinian architect Elias Anastas explains. “The disasters are as random and as violent and as badly predicted as natural disasters, except that they have been much more frequent.

“In Gaza [however], the annihilation has become so frequent that the building, rebuilding and destroying are happening at the same time.”

For Muna Budeiri, the head of the housing and camp improvement unit at the United Nations Relief and Works Agency for Palestine Refugees in the Near East (UNRWA), the current need for swift action has to be tempered with careful consideration.

“Planning is usually a long and tedious process, but emergencies and conflicts require very quick solutions because people are homeless,” the Amman-based architect explains. “There is always a period where you need to create transitional housing for refugees before planning can begin, but even then it is very important for planners to be involved from the start.”

Budeiri’s understanding of the pressures and the pitfalls associated with the earliest phases of reconstruction is born of 20 years’ experience of working as an architect and a planner in the region’s refugee camps such as Jenin in the West Bank and Nahr Al Bared in northern Lebanon.

“In the early stages of the reconstruction of Jenin and even in the early stages of the reconstruction of Nahr Al Bared, there were suggestions that we use prototype buildings, with designs that were very easy and that we build them in a standard grid with roads and walkways, like a city from the 1950s.”

For Budeiri however, the inherent dangers in such an approach stem from the fact that it fails to take the culture, living habits and family bonds of the displaced persons into account. “Most of the Palestinian refugee camps are based on extended family housing and each plot has a house that has been vertically and horizontally extended to house the family itself.

“So, decisions made at early stages that come up with multi-storey or high-rise buildings to create higher densities and to make prototypes that make [reconstruction] quicker, all of these will affect the social fabric later on. These are issues that planners can provide solutions to at a very early stage.”

Last Sunday, the streets of Gaza filled with more than 430,000 children finally making their way back to school.

They are the lucky ones. According to the latest report by the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA), 501 children were killed in the recent conflict and estimates by the Palestinian Authority (PA) suggest that about half a million children no longer have a school to go to, either because of damage and destruction to their school buildings or because their schools are now being used to house displaced persons or refugees. Due to the severity of the situation, the start of the new school term had been delayed by two weeks.

However, for the pupils of Children’s Land, a kindergarten in the Bedouin village of Umm Al Nasser, there was no possibility of return.

The school, located just 600 metres from the security barrier that defines Gaza’s border with Israel, was one of 26 in Gaza that had been destroyed completely, razed to the ground by the Israel Defense Forces (IDF) during a devastating attack that also depopulated the village.

The school’s designers Mario Cucinella of Mario Cucinella Architects (MCA) and Alberto Alcalde of Architettura & Cooperazione (ARCo), only learnt of the kindergarten’s fate a month after the attack. “The Israelis came from the north to Erez and demolished everything,” Cucinella explains. “They came with bulldozers and they just took everything down.”

Cucinella admits that he was shocked by the news “but when we saw the pictures we were most sad for the community. These people were living at the very edge of society, a very small community of Bedouin, really living with nothing.”

Built using corrugated sheeting and timber and with walls made from sandbags filled with earth, the 120-pupil school and community centre had included six classrooms, a family counselling space, an infirmary and a community kitchen.

“When we opened the school it was a moment of joy for the community because they had the feeling, for the first time, that somebody was taking care of them,” the Italian architect explains.

“The problem was that there were no services for families with children aged between zero and five so the kindergarten was built to care for children who would have to play out in an environment that is very dangerous. This was the first time the kids had been able go to school and play in safety.”

Thanks to the simplicity of the centre’s design, the kindergarten took only a few weeks to build using unskilled labour from the local community and cost only Dh856,000 (€180,000) when it was completed in 2011.

Funded by the Italian ministry of foreign affairs and international cooperation, the project was coordinated by Vento di Terra, an Italian NGO. According to Cucinella, both the NGO and the ministry are already making assessments for the Umm Al Nasser kindergarten’s reconstruction.

“There was no reason to demolish [the school] but there are very good reasons to rebuild [it] and I think that the Cooperazione Italiana want to show that they are stronger than any war. We have to do this.”

A decade ago, in the unlikely setting of Santa Monica, California, Doug Suisman was surprised to find his attention turning to the seemingly intractable urban problems of one of the most troubled regions in the Middle East.

An experienced architect and urban planner, Suisman had been approached by the RAND Corporation, a US-based, not-for-profit think tank, and was given the task of developing a concept plan for a sustainable Palestinian urban future predicated on the existence of peace in the region and a viable Palestinian state.

Initially, the challenge seemed overwhelming, not least because RAND had given Suisman a deadline of six weeks. As Suisman remembers, the whole project seemed a rather unlikely prospect at the time.

“I said: ‘You must be kidding’ … You’re saying to me, take the world’s most intractable political conflict in a region that I don’t know, am not expert in and travelled to once 30 years ago and in six weeks you’d like me to come up with some kind of concept for housing and urban development. [RAND] said: ‘Yes, that’s about the long and short of it.’”

As early as 2002, RAND had assembled a multidisciplinary team of experts to work with Palestinians, Israelis and the international community to develop an in-depth and comprehensive nation-­building plan to address the issues that might affect the peace associated with a successful two-state solution.

It was during this period that the need for a framework that addressed Palestine’s urban future became paramount in order to facilitate the state’s success.

“What would it need to be successful, that was really the question,” Suisman remembers. “Because the creation of a state was one thing, but no one wanted to create what would become a failed state.”

Unexpectedly, Suisman’s status as an outsider became his most useful aid; it allowed him and his team to consider the everyday – the topography of the land and the density of existing settlements – even as the raging Second Intifada made travel to the region impossible.

“We almost made the point of making it like any other urban design challenge. It made it easier but it also matched the problem, which was ‘let’s just assume that the political conflict had ended’.

“We were looking at ordinary things, like how people would buy their groceries in the morning; would they walk or would they get into a car; how would they get to school or a doctor or to a university.”

Having worked on numerous downtown city planning projects as well as a mass transportation system for Los Angeles, Suisman found that, at a certain level, planning for Palestine’s future away from the region and as a desktop exercise actually worked.

As part of an earlier study, RAND had identified the need for infrastructure to connect the cities of the West Bank to Gaza, an idea which led Suisman’s team towards a simple and striking concept for meeting the challenges of Palestine’s rapid urban growth – The Arc.

The benefits of the early introduction of efficient, fully integrated public transport and urban infrastructure was a lesson that Suisman had learnt from his experience in LA. One aim was an urban future free from the problems associated with a predicted influx of cars.

“In a sense, Palestine would leapfrog over the urban sprawl phase. They would jump past that, which would be a blessing, like missing an unpleasant adolescent phase of urban growth and just be grown up.”

For Suisman, the key to The Arc’s success lay in engaging with its intended audience, something that could only be achieved by developing the concept to a stage where it was sufficiently detailed to make sense to them – the politicians, planners and residents of Palestine.

To achieve this, Suisman made what was potentially a politically charged decision, to render his plans with the kind of detail that a wider public could get excited about. “We developed different schemes where people could potentially project themselves into these places and say: ‘Oh, that is what it would look and feel like in a prospective Palestinian state,’” he says.

“And, I think that was powerful in that the notion of a Palestinian state had remained such a political abstraction. So many Palestinians told us – and others involved – that for the first time they could see and envision what such a state would look like and feel like …”

Following the earliest phase of The Arc’s development, Suisman visited the Palestinian Territories some 13 times but he first crossed an Israeli checkpoint to present his plans to president Mahmoud Abbas in June 2005. The reception was positive, Suisman says, so much so that he continued to work with planners from the Palestinian Authority on The Arc’s development until 2011.

According to Suisman, the period was one of relative optimism. “It seemed plausible that the plan might help in some small way, just as a concept or as a guiding star.”

Although the Arab Spring brought work on the scheme to a standstill, Suisman is not entirely pessimistic: “At this moment, I am not optimistic that in the immediate future there is any prospect of bringing it back on the table, but I have been surprised before,” he says. “On at least five occasions, I thought it was dead and over, and someone came back to it, so it seems to have staying power.

“We certainly designed it that way … We felt that if the concept is clear and strong and bright enough, it can survive upheaval and changes of personnel and administration, in the way that any long-term urban plan must because otherwise, every plan gets thrown out by the next round of folks.”

Within the Palestinian Territories, Suisman believes that the plan has been used as a starting point for discussions on development that had not previously existed because of a fear that anything concrete might derail or curtail the outcome of negotiations. In one sense, however, Suisman’s Arc achieved a modicum of success, despite the fact that not a single spade of earth has been turned nor a foundation stone laid.

“As we talked to people, the one phrase that we heard again and again to our surprise – it was not any­thing we intended – was: ‘This gives me hope.’ We heard this from very senior Palestinian officials, from certain Israelis, from others in the region: ‘This gives me hope.’

“So, there was a kind of power in the idea, fleshed out, that seemed to inspire people. And that kept it going. People began to say to us, this is not just about the day after peace, getting these images out could actually help get to peace because it gives people an idea of what it might be like. It makes it plausible.”

Despite the recent agreement between the UN, the Palestinian Authority and Israel for the rebuilding of Gaza, there remains a lack of large-scale, long-term thinking about the future of the Territories, but for Suisman his experience with The Arc and in Palestine has made one thing certain. “When people dream of peace, they are dreaming really of very ordinary things and peace means being able to do very mundane things without fear.

“Most people aspire to just live a decent life for themselves and their families. And that’s how we developed it. Every day we got up and thought: ‘OK, how could life be made better on a daily basis in a prospective Palestinian state,’ and that’s what people responded to.”

Two Palestinian brothers, Elias and Yousef Anastas, form the core of AAU Anastas, a small architectural practice with offices in Paris and Bethlehem. The brothers are currently designing a new paediatric hospital in Bethlehem and new courthouses for the West Bank communities of Hebron and Tulkarem, but it is the links their works draw between architecture conducted at a small scale and the larger urban issues faced by the Palestinian Territories that have brought most attention to their work.

Given the situation in the Territories today, Elias Anastas agrees with the basic proposal that lies at the heart of the RAND Arc – that reconstruction needs to focus on major infrastructural renewal – but that is where their similarities end.

If The Arc can be characterised as a rare and well-intentioned attempt to propose a large-scale, long-term solution to Palestine’s urban problems, it does so, necessarily, from the outside.

Despite Suisman’s long experience as an urban designer and many visits to the region, The Arc also has no option but to be an exercise in strategic urban planning conducted from the top-down.

As Palestinians in the West Bank, however, the Anastas brothers command an insider’s knowledge of their own heritage and culture and begin at the opposite end of the planning spectrum, from the bottom up, with the individuals and the buildings that form the DNA of successful neighbourhoods.

When it comes to talking about Gaza, however, Elias Anastas insists that he is also an outsider. “It’s quite complicated for us as Palestinians living in the West Bank to have a correct assessment about the priorities for Gaza. We are physically completely separated from Gaza – I have never been there – and a majority of my generation living in the West Bank are not allowed to go there.”

What divides Elias Anastas’s approach from Suisman’s most profoundly, however, is a fundamental question of scale. For him, it is the inability to conceive of an appropriate sense of scale, or agreed borders, that has prevented local architects and planners from taking a longer-term perspective when thinking about Palestine’s urban future.

“Usually, the planning of cities is connected directly to a territory and a limit, whereas in Palestine, the recognised 1967 borders are infringed by the path of the segregation wall,” he explains.

“This means we cannot count on them as a base on which to plan. How can we plan for these disconnected cities without knowing or having a territorial limit? It makes any planning on the Palestinian side impossible.”

This adherence to a smaller scale can be understood most clearly in the AAU design for the Bethlehem branch of the Edward Said National Conservatory of Music. In 2007, AAU won a competition to design the new community centre and in 2012 the conservatory was built on land donated by the municipality of Beit Sahour, east of Jerusalem.

Both the conservatory and its adjacent neighbourhood, a form of outdoor souq, can be understood as a contemporary reinterpretation of traditional Palestinian architectural features and urban forms and as an attempt to envision a new, nuanced, form of Palestinian future.

Clad in traditional Sour Ma’in stone from a nearby quarry, the conservatory also features external louvres over its windows that reference traditional mashrabiya, and a central plaza, or hosh, inspired by the communal, semi-private courtyards that were once an important feature of rural Palestinian homes.

Not only does this contemporary hosh act as a new semi-public open space for both the students at the conservatory and the residents of Beit Sahour, but it also helps as a cooling mechanism for the central plaza, reducing ambient temperatures by one or two degrees.

“The project started at the scale of the music conservatory but gradually it grew into an urban form that enabled us to understand and question the process of city construction at the local scale,” he explains.

The parcel of land adjacent to the conservatory was originally intended to be a public open space, but as construction began the local municipality changed its mind and wanted to create a mall or a commercial centre immediately in front of the new conservatory’s hosh.

In response, AAU made a counterproposal which aimed to balance the outward-looking character of the conservatory’s central plaza with the municipality’s desire for an adjacent commercial scheme. AAU achieved this with a plan that aligned the pedestrian street of the new outdoor souq with the central hosh of the new conservatory, reinforcing and expanding the neighbourhood’s public realm while visually connecting the conservatory with the city in the process.

The result was an expanded design not just for a building but for a neighbourhood, something Elias Anastas refers to as an “urban fragment”, that not only reflected the culture and heritage of the traditional Palestinian city, but which also responded to contemporary urban issues and demands.

“We wanted to think about the future of the city in an inclusive manner, so we involved the citizens, the municipality, bricklayers and the engineers in a conversation and a process that made our design feasible,” the architect explains.

This strategy of inclusion not only allowed the brothers to gain acceptance for their design and make it workable, it also helped them to persuade the local municipality to maintain many of the areas around the conservatory as public open spaces.

Elias Anastas admits this is no easy task in the occupied territories. “People have a lack of trust in public spaces and so, even at the municipal level, it’s not easy to try to persuade them to keep a space open for the public in the evening. Public space became associated with expressions of power so today, public spaces are not perceived as places where you can have confidence.”

If AAU’s conservatory attempts to reconstruct an idea of contemporary public space in Palestine, so too does another AAU project, Stonesourcing Space, an experimental stone pavilion created by Yousef Anastas. A contemporary reinterpretation of the mounteer, a type of refuge or shelter traditionally found throughout the Palestinian countryside, Stonesourcing Space was first constructed in Bethlehem’s Nativity Square in September 2013.

Like the Edward Said National Conservatory of Music, the Anastas brothers see their pavilion as an “architecture of resistance”. The aim of this temporary structure is to encourage Palestinians to reclaim, occupy and redefine public space in ways that move beyond the terms of surveillance, control, security and protest.

The pavilion’s resistance stems from its ability to introduce the notion of exhibition, discussion, inquiry and play in Palestinian public space by virtue of its location and existence.

For the Anastas brothers, however, there is an extra dimension to Stonesourcing Space’s resistance. Each time a pavilion is erected, it becomes a symbolic marker, like some contemporary cairn or a 3-D version of a graffiti artist’s tag, that acts as a mark and a reminder of property ownership and a symbolic act of resistance to the path and the existence of the Israeli West Bank Barrier.

“As Palestinian architects,” Elias Anastas explains, “our challenge is to develop urban forms and construction techniques that can evolve and develop into the urban fabric of the future Palestinian city.

“As time passes, we are more and more persuaded that an architecture of resistance has a real place in solving the complex territorial reality in Palestine [but] I think in order to achieve peace, an architecture of resistance should contribute to the emancipation of the Palestinian population.

“To achieve peace, the Palestinian population must be emancipated.”

This article was originally published in The National in 2014

Art: Shifting Ground – Sharjah Biennial 13 in Ramallah


Sharjah Biennial 13’s latest off-site project takes place the contested spaces of the Occupied Territories, where the chosen theme of ‘earth’ has particular resonance, writes Nick Leech

Before its conversion in 1996, No 4 Raja Street in Ramallah was best known as the former family home of Khalil Salem Salah, the man who served as mayor of the Palestinian town between 1947 and 1951.

Now the stone mansion, renamed the Khalil Sakakini Cultural Centre, has opened its doors to an international five-day symposium. Shifting Ground: The Underground Is Not the Past opened on Thursday, the third of four off-site events for the Sharjah Biennial 13: Tamawuj, curated by Christine Tohmé. It features lectures by academics, performances from artists such as Laurence Abu Hamdan, and the launch of nine artists’ books.

Jordanian artist Abu Hamdan opened the event with his audio essay Bird Watching – an acoustic investigation into the regime at Saydnaya prison in Syria, where torture and mass executions have taken place, using the testimonies of ex-prisoners .

Following similar off-sites in Dakar, Senegal, in January and Istanbul, Turkey, in May, which addressed themes using the keywords ‘water’ and ‘crops’, curator Lara Khaldi explains Shifting Ground’s relevance to Ramallah, the West Bank in Palestine.

“‘Earth’ was assigned to Ramallah and that’s quite a difficult key word to deal with because it’s so fraught, and perhaps it’s already been overtly romanticised in relation to Palestinians,” says Khaldi, who aimed to tackle the issue in a different way.

“The relationship with earth is romanticised here because in order to be indigenous you need to prove a link to the land and to nature,” she says.

The former assistant director for programmes at the Sharjah Art Foundation adds: “It’s something that happens in many communities. In order to prove your right to the land, you have to become part of nature. So quite contrary to what should happen, our relationship with the land and the land itself becomes symbolic, not material, which is a problem.”

Rather than simply mounting an exhibition, Khaldi was drawn to the idea of a symposium and publications in part, she says, because of the freedom afforded to her by the Biennial and also as a way to bring the region’s art and academic communities together in conversation.

“The idea came out of the research around the keywords but there are many artists in Palestine doing research-based work and the form of the artist’s publication hasn’t really been explored here,” says Khaldi, who is also a former director of the Khalil Sakakini Cultural Centre.

“We’re producing 500 copies of each publication, which means that there is the potential for each of those to end up in the hands of someone you do not know and who isn’t part of the usual audience that comes to an exhibition.”

The artist publications are by Noor Abuarafeh, Benji Boyadgian, Ma’touq, Nicola Perugini, Samir Harb and Mimi Cabell, Yara Saqfalhait, Subversive Film (Reem Shilleh & Mohanad Yaqubi) and The Palestinian Museum of Natural History and Humankind.

The symposium itself has been organised around issues relating to subterranean sites such as cemeteries, to earth as a medium and the challenging conceptual issue of Palestinian museums.

Papers such as Suhad Daher Nashif’s Secret Cemeteries of Numbers: Imprisoning Palestinian Corpses in Buried Historical Archives, which discusses the incarceration of the bodies of Palestinians by Israeli forces – sometimes for decades – not only speak to the extreme nature of the issues that confront people in the Occupied Territories but also to Khaldi’s determination to make the symposium relevant to her audience.

“It’s important to talk about what’s happening on the ground on both a symbolic level as well as on an imperialist level,” she says.

“Jerusalem families have been smuggling corpses out of hospitals in order to bury them before the Israeli military can keep the corpse.”

In the context of the Occupied Territories, Khaldi explains, issues relating to the earth, to burial, to death and to museums have a way of mutating so that they are charged with different meanings to the ones that they may have elsewhere.

“It’s a contradiction, but by burying something you allow it to continue and to live, whereas in a museum, it congeals, and once you exhibit something, you kill its vitality,” she says.

“So what model of a museum should we follow? The museums that are being built follow a model which doesn’t really work here. It’s such a particular situation, that the wheel has to be reinvented.”

That needs to develop a new language, not just of representing reality but of seeing and understanding it, is something that emerges time and time again in the papers and publications that have emerged from Shifting Ground.

“Images of the apartheid wall, for example, are always on TV, but that doesn’t answer the question of how you represent it, that’s a completely different question, and that’s something that’s very much on the minds of our generation,” says Khaldi.

“It’s hard to represent these images that have also become so mundane, so what form do you choose to talk about these issues? How do you present that to the world?”

Nowhere is this attempt at a new language more evident than in the work of 29-year-old Inas Halabiwhose project, Lions Warn of Futures Present, has also resulted in one of the publications launched at the symposium on Thursday.

Based on her investigations of rumours that circulate about Israel’s dumping of chemical and nuclear waste in the West Bank, Halabi’s five-part publication and photographs attempt to capture and represent the largely invisible and ungraspable threat of radiation and its effect, both physical and psychological, on local communities.

“How do you create a feeling of something that’s disturbing or haunting in a publication or an image?” Halabi asks me, speaking from Ramallah.

By investigating a potential disaster that might already have arrived, Lions Warn of Futures Present not only attempts to investigate objects and substances that have been buried but stories and memories as well.

Halabi does this using a series of narratives that blend the results of real-life scientific investigations by local doctors and physicists with rumours that, regardless of their status, operate on a mythic level that has tangible consequences, despite an absence of verifiable facts.

“A rumour has no colour and can’t be seen, but it spreads faster than fire underneath your own two feet,” Halabi writes in The Belgian Journalists, one of the five pamphlets that comprise Lions Warn of Futures Present.

In another, Near the Caves Lies a Peach Orchard, the artist goes in search of mysterious, man-made rock formations and concrete-sealed caves that are rumoured to contain hazardous waste, while in The Red Book, Halabi lists readings of highly radioactive Caesium-137 that have been recorded by an academic in villages south of Hebron.

A deadly hazard that is now associated with nuclear disasters,Caesium-137 does not occur in nature but is associated with spent nuclear fuel, weapons and lethal levels of contamination.

Photograph through red film of an area in the West Bank where nuclear waste is reported to beburied, from new artist publication by Inas Halabi, 2017
Photograph through red film of an area in the West Bank, Palestine, where nuclear waste is reported to be buried. From a new artist’s publication by Inas Halabi, Lions Warn Us of Futures Present, 2017

Like the stories and narratives that circulate throughout the villages, Caesium-137 is invisible, hugely damaging and highly mobile, so to try to render its presence, Halabi places sheets of red plastic in front of her camera lens to change the colour of her landscape photographs, adding more sheets, systematically, in an attempt to quantify and mirror the level of radioactivity.

Halabi’s use of red in her photographs plays on our deep associations of the colour with danger and also refers to an episode from the Chernobyl nuclear disaster in which local forests are reported to have turned red just before dying en masse.

In using a physical device to try to reveal the hidden secrets of the landscape south of Hebron, Halabi’s work also echoes the 18th-century fashion for the use of a special lens, know as a Claude glass, that once allowed aesthetically-inclined tourists to frame and comprehend the picturesque elements in any given landscape.

Rather than beauty, however, Halabi’s work encourages her audience to comprehend the horror that might be ingrained in the scenes she records, landscapes where inexplicable cancers and deformities are said to proliferate, where cattle and sheep die mysteriously in yellow fields and where strangely-coloured spring water brings death to migrating birds.

Halabi admits that she cannot be sure whether the tales of dumping and contamination she has gathered are true, but the narratives she has woven from her research are supported by footnotes and indexes, which act like geological strata, holding the facts and the figures she has gathered from her research.

“I didn’t want to eliminate them completely from the work, which is why I kept the footnotes as evidence for things I haven’t tried to transform, she says.

“I think it’s very important to share that information. We share knowledge with others through storytelling, but a lot of times, even though something might be presented as fiction, it might still be about something in daily life that is very real.”

For Khaldi, the most valuable opportunity afforded by hosting the Biennial off-site in Ramallah is to engage with a wider audience while addressing her community’s concerns.

“With the scope of the project, it wasn’t ever meant to be like a Biennial where the international art scene descends because at some point in these events they become events that could work anywhere,” she says.

“So in a sense this is an attempt to see what might happen when you have a local conversation. That doesn’t mean that you alienate anyone coming from abroad, not at all, but it is about being more specific to a particular place.”

With its potent mix of politics and folklore, suffering and memory, landscape and death, the work presented at Shifting Ground certainly achieves that.

The effect is often harrowing, taking audiences from beyond the West Bank to a terrifying and extremely uncomfortable place, but that’s because this is a portrait of contemporary colonialism in action and the result of a subject – earth – that is bitterly contested.

Shifting Ground: The Underground Is Not the Past is part of Sharjah Biennial 13: Tamawuj (sharjahart.org/biennial-13)

This article originally appeared in The National

Art: Reem Fadda’s Jerusalem Lives at the Palestinian ­Museum


In May last year, when the Palestinian Museum was first unveiled on the outskirts of West Bank university town Birzeit, the US$24 million (Dh88.2m) building may have been complete, but its galleries stood empty.

Never Part, the exhibition planned for the inauguration by the museum’s then director, Jack Persekian, had been cancelled just before the opening by the museum’s board.

The cancellation accompanied Persekian’s dismissal, but the opening ceremony went ahead as planned on May 16, the day after the commemoration of the 68th anniversary of the Nakba, or day of catastrophe.

“We are celebrating the fact it is completed on time. We are celebrating the gardens,” said the museum’s chairman, Omar Al-Qattan, who was quoted by the AFP news agency at the time of the opening. “We wanted to stick to a date – I think it is very important psychologically for us to be able to make promises that we keep. So we decided to open now rather than wait for the inaugural exhibition.”

Now, after a 15-month hiatus, that wait is finally over. On Sunday at 5pm, the museum’s inaugural show will open to the public.

Curated by Reem Fadda, the former associate curator for Middle Eastern art at the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi who was also responsible for the UAE’s National Pavilion at the 2012 Venice Biennale, Jerusalem Lives spills out from the museum’s central exhibition spaces and across its landscaped terraces, looking to Jerusalem and beyond.

While Fadda admits there was never any question the museum’s inaugural exhibition would address the painful and politically fraught issue of the city, the thinking that has informed the show is as damning as it is ambitious.

Through Jerusalem Lives, Fadda simultaneously identifies the city as globalisation’s wellspring and also as the site of its destruction – a place where cosmopolitanism, multiculturalism and openness have withered in the face of a xenophobia that now appears contagious.

The result is a portrait of Jerusalem that is part requiem, part prophecy and part reckoning.

“Metaphorically, if we accept that globalisation started in Jerusalem, then let’s look how it has failed in Jerusalem and how this kind of failure has been exported to the rest of the world. This is my thesis,” Fadda explains.

“You have failing multiculturalism and this intensified language around security, surveillance, militarisation, police states, gentrification, the exclusion of indigenous people, intolerance of others,” she insists, pointing to the rhetoric that now dominates discussions of life in newer global cities such as London and Paris.

“When you have that kind of language, you start to understand that this was accepted worldwide because of what was happening in Jerusalem, and those same logics of control have now been exported everywhere else.”

Fadda admits that she has a difficult relationship with Jerusalem, both emotionally and politically. “It breaks my heart because I see it as a dead city, and emotionally, I don’t know to deal with that,” she says.

“I want to show what it means to have a military occupation enforced on the city and exclusionary policies. This is very real, and it can be seen in zoning and house demolitions, in a stifled economy, in every facet of the city where rules are applied that have caused its death,” she continues.

“It’s fascinating to see this in the microcosm of an exhibition, because it allows you to see this in all its intensity and how, because the world finds it completely acceptable, it has become the norm everywhere else.”

Jerusalem Lives features work by 48 artists including Ramallah-based Khaled Jarrar, who has used work based on the Israeli occupation of the West Bank as a starting point for broader investigations of militarisation and violence; and Khaled Hourani and Emily Jacir. All three are associated with the International Academy of Art Palestine, the Ramallah-based art school that Fadda helped to establish in 2006.

At the heart of Jerusalem Lives is a maze-like exhibition space, featuring a host of audio-visual works and research that has been designed to evoke the noise and confusion of the city centre.

Fadda initially saw this as a place for the presentation of research about the city, rather than art, but admits she had a change of heart.

“It’s overwhelming, and initially I wondered whether it would be appropriate to put the work of artists in such a setting or whether I should relegate them to the landscape outside, where the experience is calmer and more aesthetic,” the curator says. “In the end, I decided I would do both, so it ended up housing a lot of works by artists I consider visionary, who are really involved with ideas of agency and exclusion, openness and belonging.”

These include Jerusalem-born photographer Ahed Izhiman, who has created a panoramic photograph of five Israeli settlements that encircle the city’s eastern perimeter, and ­veteran Palestinian artist Mona Hatoum, whose installation, Present Tense, has been recreated more than a decade after it was first exhibited in Jerusalem’s Gallery Anadiel in 1996.

Made from 2,400 square blocks of traditional olive-oil soap from West Bank city Nablus, and thousands of red beads, Present Tense maps the disconnected territories that, according to the Oslo Accords of 1993, would be returned to Palestinian control.

As well as works by Oscar Murillo, ­Adrian Villar Rojas and Mumbai-based artist Sudarshan Shetty, Jerusalem Lives also includes a new installation by the UAE’s Mohammed Kazem, Directions (Border), which has been applied directly to the museum’s windows and casts shadows across its floor.

Building on Kazem’s long-standing interest in notions of place, location and dislocation, Directions (Border) lists the co-ordinates of cities that he has been unable to visit as a result of his nationality, including Jerusalem and Beirut.

1) Photo by_ Iwan Baan © the Palestinian Museum
The Palestinian Museum in Birzeit, designed by Henegan Peng Architects, opened in 2016. Photo by Iwan Baan © the Palestinian Museum

Outside the museum, which was designed by Dublin-based architects Heneghan Peng in 2011, a series of 18 installations can be found on the building’s roof and terraces, which afford views over the rocky hills and valleys and surrounding towns and villages.

On the museum’s terrace, Ramallah-based artist, curator and art critic Hourani has installed a pair of binoculars that allows viewers to look at a major, three-metre-wide installation that he has mounted on the side of a house in an adjacent village.

Made of tiles, the work reads “a compass that does not point to Jerusalem”, a partial quote from the work of well-known Iraqi poet ­Muzaffar Al-Nawab, which says “a compass that does not point to Jerusalem is faulty”.

Farther down the ridge that forms the site of the museum, Swiss artist Bob Gramsma has constructed an enormous, 150-tonne sculpture, Facts on the ground OI#17241, from concrete, steel reinforcement and soil. Constructed by using a natural cavity in the ground as a mould, the tectonic work not only looks like a part of the natural landscape, but also helps to frame it, while inviting visitors to climb over it, stand on it and sit beneath it, raising questions about the relationship between sculpture and landscape, presence and absence, identity and soil that speak directly to its immediate environment.

As well as the internal shows and external installations, Jerusalem Lives will also include a public programme, which has been organised in conjunction with existing Jerusalem-based cultural institutions and a catalogue, produced in partnership with the Jerusalem Quarterly, a long-standing journal that focuses exclusively on the city of Jerusalem’s history and future.

“I sat with the editor, Salim Tamari, and said that I wanted to produce a special edition where he gave me a topic that would become the anchor for the catalogue,” Fadda says. “He decided that it should consist of 13 essays about the lives of some of the most-­important Jerusalemites and came up with the title, Jerusalem Lives, and that’s how we arrived at the title of the show.”

Written by figures such as the Jerusalem-born artist Kamal Boullata and Palestinian-­American academic Lila Abu-Lughod, the essays include profiles of historical figures such as ­pioneering physician, medical researcher and ethnographer Tawfiq Canaan and Jerusalemite artist and educator Daoud Zalatimo.

When she was invited to curate the show last December, Fadda admits the prospect of staging such a large, politically charged exhibition was daunting, after almost a decade spent living and working abroad, mostly in New York.

“Given the tight time frame, I have to admit that I was nervous about accepting [the commission]. As a Palestinian with a West Bank ID, it’s a place I can’t even visit without a permit or being smuggled in,” she admits, describing the experience of returning to curate the show as “supercharged”. “But now that I’m back, it’s like I’m finally regaining my footing with something I’m much more comfortable with. It feels like I’m really dealing with the political situation and looking it straight in the eye.”

That sense of political and aesthetic engagement and confrontation has marked Fadda’s work as a curator since earlier years in the West Bank when she worked on projects such as Liminal Spaces, which was designed to allow Arab and Israeli artists to voice their criticism of the construction of the separation wall that cuts through the West Bank.

“Through my studies and my work at the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, I’ve always been a proponent of art that has emerged from the global south that is politically and socially aware and that speaks to society,” Fadda insists. “I think what’s happening here in Palestine is a great example of that. It’s a very active art that is loud and that really speaks to the needs in society.”

Back at the museum’s inauguration ceremony in May last year, Palestinian Authority president Mahmoud Abbas declared: “This museum will tell the world – the entire world – that we were here, we are still here, and we will continue to be here to build our independent state. Nobody can deny us this right.”

As defiant as it is eloquent, Fadda’s ambitious Jerusalem Lives follows similar landmark events around the world, such as Palestine’s first participation in the Venice Biennale in 2009, as the latest statement in a political struggle that knows no boundaries.

“Working on a show that is taking the pulse of the city and addressing things that are so urgent for us now, especially given what has happened recently at Al Aqsa,” Fadda says, describing the experience as a sort of political and intellectual homecoming. “But for me, this is a cultural extension of that protest.”

Jerusalem Lives (Tahya Al Quds) ran from August 27­ to December 15 2017 at the Palestinian Museum. www.palmuseum.org

This article originally appeared in The National